When you import a car from Japan, you are often buying it based on photos and a single piece of paper: the Japanese Car Auction Sheet.
For most buyers in Nairobi, this sheet looks like a confusing mix of numbers and Japanese hieroglyphs. But for smart importers, this sheet is the vehicle's "medical record." It tells you if the mileage is genuine, if the car has been in a crash, and if that "clean" Toyota Harrier is actually a rust bucket in disguise.
Don't rely solely on your broker's word. This guide will teach you how to read the auction sheet yourself so you can spot the difference between a Grade 4.5 gem and a Grade R accident repair.
1. The Overall Auction Grade: The Quick Filter
The large number in the top right corner is the "Overall Grade." It is the inspector's summary of the car's condition.
| Grade 6 / S | Brand New. Less than 12 months old. Usually too expensive for Kenya due to depreciation taxes. |
| Grade 5 / 4.5 | The Gold Standard. Like new. A Grade 4.5 is the target for high-end units (Prado/Harrier). Expect near-perfect condition. |
| Grade 4.0 | The Value Sweet Spot. Good condition with minor scratches. Mechanically sound. Best for budget-conscious buyers (Forester/X-Trail). |
| Grade 3.5 | Fair / Needs Detail. Often just dirty or has high mileage. Technically, a Grade 3.5 car is one with noticeable cosmetic imperfections or higher mileage. But in reality, inspectors often downgrade a car to 3.5 for three specific reasons:
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| Grade R / RA | Accident History. The car has been crashed and repaired. Avoid unless you are an expert. |
2. Interior & Exterior Ratings (A - E)
Below the numeric grade, you will see letter grades (A, B, C, D, or E).
- Interior A: Showroom fresh. No wear.
- Interior B: Clean. Maybe a slight scuff on the steering wheel. Target this.
- Interior C: Average. Expect cigarette burns, worn seat edges, or coffee stains.
- Interior D: Poor. Ripped seats, sticky dashboards, or heavy pet smells.
3. The Body Map: Decoding the "Secret Code"
The diagram of the car on the sheet is covered in letters and numbers. This is where the truth hides.
Fig 1. The standard USS Auction Sheet layout.
"A" - Scratch (Akizu)
- A1 (Micro-Scratch): Barely visible. Usually buffs out.
- A2 (Visible Scratch): Fingernail catches on it. Needs touch-up paint.
- A3 (Deep Scratch): Paint is gone. Panel needs repainting.
"U" - Dent (Ukomi)
- U1 (Pin Dent): Size of a thumb tip. Most people won't notice.
- U2 (Visible Dent): Clearly visible. Size of a palm.
- U3 (Big Dent): Panel is deformed. Requires panel beating.
"W" - Wave / Repair Mark (Critical!)
W means the car has been painted or repaired before.
- W1: Perfect repair. Only visible with a paint thickness gauge. Safe to buy.
- W2: Decent repair, but visible if you look closely (slight color difference).
- W3: Bad repair. Putty marks visible or paint cracking. Avoid W3.
4. The Deal Breakers: XX and Rust
If you see these codes on the body map, proceed with extreme caution.
XX (Replaced Panel)
Means the panel was damaged so badly it was replaced. Multiple "XX" marks suggest a major previous accident.
C2 (Corrosion)
Structural rot / rust. Do not buy. It may fail QISJ inspection and be rejected from entering Kenya.
Summary: The Buying Formula
If you are importing for family use in Kenya, stick to this formula:
- Target: Grade 4.0 or 4.5
- Interior: Grade B
- Body Map: Mostly A1 and U1 marks (easy to fix).
- Avoid: W3, C2, and multiple XX marks.
The 3-Point Checklist Before Bidding Before you bid on a Grade 3.5, check these three items on the sheet:
Check the Mileage: Is it a 3.5 only because it has 110,000km? If the service history is good, this is a safe buy.
Translate the Notes: Look for "Engine Noise" or "Transmission Slip." If you see mechanical warnings, RUN. A Grade 3.5 with engine issues is not a bargain; it is a corpse.
The "Tobacco" Rule: If the interior is Grade C and the notes say "Cigarette Smell" (Yani), be careful. You can ozone treatment it, but heavy smoke smell drastically lowers resale value in Kenya.